Daks adventures

Since I've returned to the Northeast I've been climbing primarily in the Adirondaacks on a mission for new routes! The Daks have soooooo much potential and there is sooo much rock that I quickly found myself with 4 new projects, only 1 of which I've been able to send. Needless to say, I've got my hands full for the summer and fall! Naomi and I also had an incredible day on Cannon Cliff right after I got back. We did the VMC Direct Direct. This is a mega-classic route and Naomi crushed it!

Some pics below!

The Tsunami Wall project at Silver Lake in the Daks. The  route takes the twin cracks up the middle of the face and is actually the only route on the 115degree overhanging wall that I think will go free. My friend Peter Kamitses tried it and we both think it may be 5.14! Sick!

Me on the first free ascent of "Another Wack N' Dangle Job" 12b at the King Wall

Naomi racked and about to start up the VMC Direct Direct, Cannon Cliff, NH

Naomi following the .10+ corner on the VMC

Valley Shots

So I've been less then great about updating this blog to say the least but here are some shots from my trip to the Valley.

Tim sublexed his shoulder the night before we were to leave so I ended up driving out there solo and meeting up with some cool partners. I didn't send the Freerider but my partner Nik did and I'll certainly be back for it! Here are some pics!

Arrival in the Valley!

All the gear I humped to the top of El Cap to work on Freerider!

Nik rapping around the corner into the Enduro Dihedrals

Nik starting up the Monster Offwidth at sunset

The aftermath of the Monster Offwidth!

Bivy at the Block on Freerider

Portaledge bivy during the final push

Our Bags and the crux pitch below which included a double dyno 2000' off the deck!

2 pitches from the top!

                 Me on Hangdog Flyer .12c

Naomi came to visit! Us below the Nose!

The view from Stoner's Highway on Middle Cathedral. This was a incredible route with many memorable 25' runouts  on thin 5.10 face climbing!

Packed and Ready!

I've packed all my gear and and clothes and all for the Valley into my truck and tomorrow I pick up Tim to head west to Yosemite Valley! This trip has been a long time coming. I've been to the valley 3 times before but never during the cool season when the California sun isn't melting the rubber off your shoes. 

After spending 35 days sport climbing in Spain and punching many laps at the Spider's Web over the last few weeks, I'm feeling more ready than ever for our goals in the valley. Our main goal is to send the Freerider a 5.12+ variation to the Salathe Wall. Free climbing El Cap has been a lifetime goal of mine and I can't wait to get up on it! Stay tuned...

El Chorro

Flowers in the breeze with the Makinodromo in the background

We've been in El Chorro now for several days after making the all night drive from Terradets and picking up Naomi in the airport. The scenery here is drastically different from the Catalunya with lush green everywhere and endless olive groves stretching to the horizon. The weather is much warmer as well and feels like summer in the midday. We've had a few great climbing days so far at the famous Makinodromo crag but I think we'll be retreating to the shade tommorrow as it is getting too hot to climb there. 

The approach to Makinodromo is an adventure in itself which starts by walking through several train tunnels for 25 minutes or so before pounding up the steep slope to the crag for another 25. All in all a good days climbing there is hard earned. The setting is absolutely beautiful and the views are some of the best I've seen from a sport crag. Kind of what I'd imagine Ceuse in France to be like.

Naomi on the approach to Makinodromo. Almost there!

We we're lucky to have a stiff breeze on both of our days at the crag which cut the temps a little. The climbing was fantastic on tufas and a variety of other holds. I got on Porrot (7c+) and sent it 4th go! The climbing was amazing with a really cool bouldery crux. Also Naomi is crushing after training all winter and sent to of her hardest sends ever a 6b+ called Life is Sweet and another 6c! On top of that she flashed the 6b+! Siiiick! She is crushing! I'm really excited to check out another area called Desplomilandia tomorrow which is mainly in the shade and looks to have some great routes.

Some more pics!

Naomi flashing "Life is Sweet" 6b+

Leaving Terradets!

Today was our last day in Terradets and climbing at the amazing Bruixes wall. I have to say, and it seems that others agree, that this crag is maybe one of the best single sectors of sport climbing in the world. Every route I got on felt super-classic and the beautiful scenery is hard to beat! We've spent the last couple of days climbing with our friend Annika and Martin. They are living in France and made the drive down for the weekend! I really feel like I've been getting stronger and sent my first 8a+ yesterday! 

Tonight Aaron and I will start the drive down to El Chorro to meet Naomi (Yeeaah!) and climb down there for 16 days! I'm looking forward to the drive through Spain the opportunity to see a lot of the countryside. The experience over here has been incredible so far. My Spanish has been improving a little and it's been really cool to chat with people from all over the world at the crag. There have been people from Poland, Spain, France, Argentina, Portugal, England, Scotland and more! The only other place I've experienced this was in Yosemite!

The other day we dropped Jason off at the airport and Aaron and I went into Barcelona to check out the city. We walked through a lot of beautiful  old neighborhoods and went to the Picasso museum and also saw the famous La Ramlbas street as well as the Gaudi "familia" cathedral. It was a nice change of pace to be in the city and get some of that culture. 

So it's more than exciting to have over 2 weeks more to spend over here and I'll try my best to post more pictures and reports!

Here are some more pics...

Jason on "Primera Linea" 8a

Self-portrait in front of the Gaudi Cathedral

Martin at the lip of an awesome 8b we tried the last couple of days!

Spain 2!!!

I've not been so good about keeping this blog up to date but here's an update on things over here in Spain. The weather turned from amazing to colder and much more rain and even some forecasted snow! Despite the turn in weather the climbing continues to be amazing and everyone is sending hard! Jason leaves on Friday so we are resting today and will climb tomorrow whatever the weather and then drive him to the airport Friday. I think Aaron and I are going to check out some of the architecture and maybe the Picasso Museum on Friday afternoon before heading back to the climbing area. 

Most exciting is that we head down to El Chorro on Tuesday to meet Naomi and climb down there for a few weeks! I can't wait to see her and spend time together over here in Spain! It's going to be incredible!

Here are some more pics!

Our friend Frej on Primera Linea! I sent this the other day. My second 8a!

The tufas and little pockets take there toll!

Terradets!

Aaron, Jason and I have been camping and climbing in Terradets for about a week now. Terradets is in the Catalunya region of Spain within sight of the Pyrenees mountains and the French border. The main attraction here is the Bruixes crag which is a mere 10 minutes from the campsite. The cliff is 25-35 meters tall and stacked with routes in the 7b-8a realm. The first few days I found myself climbing hesitantly and a bit overwhelmed by the length and amount of climbing found on the routes. Over the last couple of days I've relaxed and all the training this past winter seems to be paying off. Today I sent two of the most different routes I've ever sent in a day. One was an extremely bouldery 7c and the other a 7c+ of pure endurance for 35 meters capped by a crux boulder problem right at the anchor. I'm sooo psyched to have sent both and expecially the 7c+ energia positiva. I feel like I've figured out how to relax and recover on these long routes and am psyched to get on more of them.

The climbing is situated in a beautiful location with seemingly endless limestone cliffs of every size. We're planning on staying here for a while and possibly going to check out Margalef which I climbed at last year a bit. I'm really excited to develop some endurance here and take that to El Chorro in a couple weeks! I can't wait!

Here are some photos!

Me on a 7b+

The view from the crag!

Getting artsy with the camera at night

Aaron adrift in a sea of limestone on Energia Positiva 7c+