Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Daks adventures

Since I've returned to the Northeast I've been climbing primarily in the Adirondaacks on a mission for new routes! The Daks have soooooo much potential and there is sooo much rock that I quickly found myself with 4 new projects, only 1 of which I've been able to send. Needless to say, I've got my hands full for the summer and fall! Naomi and I also had an incredible day on Cannon Cliff right after I got back. We did the VMC Direct Direct. This is a mega-classic route and Naomi crushed it!

Some pics below!


The Tsunami Wall project at Silver Lake in the Daks. The  route takes the twin cracks up the middle of the face and is actually the only route on the 115degree overhanging wall that I think will go free. My friend Peter Kamitses tried it and we both think it may be 5.14! Sick!


Me on the first free ascent of "Another Wack N' Dangle Job" 12b at the King Wall


Naomi racked and about to start up the VMC Direct Direct, Cannon Cliff, NH


Naomi following the .10+ corner on the VMC

Valley Shots

So I've been less then great about updating this blog to say the least but here are some shots from my trip to the Valley.

Tim sublexed his shoulder the night before we were to leave so I ended up driving out there solo and meeting up with some cool partners. I didn't send the Freerider but my partner Nik did and I'll certainly be back for it! Here are some pics!


Arrival in the Valley!


All the gear I humped to the top of El Cap to work on Freerider!


Nik rapping around the corner into the Enduro Dihedrals

Nik starting up the Monster Offwidth at sunset


The aftermath of the Monster Offwidth!


Bivy at the Block on Freerider


Portaledge bivy during the final push

Our Bags and the crux pitch below which included a double dyno 2000' off the deck!


2 pitches from the top!


                 Me on Hangdog Flyer .12c


Naomi came to visit! Us below the Nose!


The view from Stoner's Highway on Middle Cathedral. This was a incredible route with many memorable 25' runouts  on thin 5.10 face climbing!